How gastronomy tourism evolved into international identity and cultural diplomacy
By Julien Bousquet, Université du Québec à Chicoutimi (UQAC)
When people travel, they aren’t just looking for historic sights they’re also looking for new flavours that captivate and connect them to the place they’re visiting.
In Québec, for example, it’s poutine. The comfort food mix of crispy fries, squeaky cheese curds and rich brown gravy was first served in 1950s-era rural snack bars before becoming a national symbol.
In Spain, paella — a saffron-infused rice dish brimming with seafood, chicken and vegetables and born in Valencia’s farmlands as a shared workers’ meal — is a must-have.
In Japan, ramen — steaming bowls of wheat noodles in a fragrant broth layered with soy, miso or pork bones — tells the story of post-Second World War solace and culinary innovation.
But beyond the flavours of food, can gastronomy become a language of identity and cultural diplomacy? That question is at the heart of Canada’s growing culinary movement.
Seasonal dishes are matched with regional wines during a winemakers’ dinner at Backyard Farm’s Chef’s Table, led by chef Chris Van Hooydonk.
Gastronomy as a form of diplomacy
Across Canada, food is fast becoming a marker of identity and regional pride. From the Okanagan Valley vineyards to Québec’s sugar shacks, cuisine is emerging as a language that defines who Canadians are — and how the world perceives them.
This movement is gaining traction as Kelowna, British Columbia recently accepted* the invitation to apply for the designation of UNESCO City of Gastronomy, a title that celebrates places where food culture drives creativity, sustainability and community.
*Editor’s Update: Kelowna, British Columbia was named UNESCO City of Gastronomy in October 2025. Created in 2004, UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network is organized into eight fields, including architecture, crafts and folk art, design, film, gastronomy, literature, media arts and music. In Canada, the network includes Quebec City (literature), Montreal (design), Toronto (media arts) and London (music).
Created in 2004, UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network recognizes and honours cities where food culture drives innovation and community well-being. Today, 57 cities hold the designation, from Parma, Italy and Chengdu, China, to Tucson, Arizona, in the United States.
Canada has yet to join their ranks, which is why Kelowna’s candidacy matters: it would be the country’s first City of Gastronomy, reflecting its mix of Indigenous heritage, wine culture and farm-to-table creativity.
As tourism continues to recover and regions compete for distinctiveness, gastronomy has become a form of soft power — a country’s ability to influence others through culture, values and attraction rather than force, shaping how nations are perceived and how travellers connect emotionally with a place.
Studies show that food tourism has become a key driver of regional development and destination appeal. The signature dish — an emblematic creation tied to a chef, region or tradition — offers a concrete way to translate culinary creativity into cultural identity.
Chef Patrick Gayler presents a farm to table offering for the alfresco Terrace Restaurant at Mission Hill Family Estate.
How food turns travel into brand
Some dishes function like culinary logos, expressing the personality of a place or a chef while creating lasting memories. Research reveals that for travellers, food becomes participation rather than consumption — a way to experience a place rather than just observe it.
A memorable meal merges creativity, heritage and place. In Canada, such dishes also act as experiential anchors that link ingredients, landscapes and emotion — from a buttery Halifax lobster roll that tastes of the Atlantic coast to a sweet, purple Saskatoon berry pie that evokes the Prairie harvest.
Yet some critics warn that the growing wave of gastronomic branding risks slipping into what they call culinary gentrification — when local traditions are polished and packaged for tourists, sometimes at the expense of the communities that created them.
The challenge for cities like Kelowna will be to celebrate their culinary identity without turning authenticity into a marketing slogan.
Canada’s regions tell their stories through food
Research on food, culture and sustainability shows how such connections help regions build distinctive, resilient identities.
In Québec, for example, food is deeply woven with cultural pride. From sugar shacks in the Laurentians and Beauce countryside to Montréal’s multicultural fine dining scene, tradition and innovation intermingle — but Québec is far from the only province where culinary identity thrives.
On Prince Edward Island, the Fall Flavours Food and Drink Festival — running from early September to mid-October — brings together chefs, farmers and fishers to celebrate the island’s harvest. Events take place in small towns and coastal villages, turning the island into one big dining room. The festival strengthens local pride, supports producers and extends the tourist season beyond summer.
In Alberta, Alberta Food Tours invite travellers to discover rural producers, Indigenous culinary traditions and farmers markets across the province, from Calgary to Jasper.
These guided experiences highlight the province’s agricultural roots while promoting sustainability and community connection.
In B.C., the Okanagan Valley, where Kelowna is located, has become a leading example of farm-to-table and wine tourism in Canada. Stretching from Vernon to Osoyoos, its vineyards and orchards supply local chefs who turn seasonal produce into creative menus. Culinary trails and wine festivals connect visitors with growers and winemakers, while Kelowna’s bid to become a UNESCO City of Gastronomy reflects the region’s growing reputation for sustainable, community-driven gastronomy.
As food tourism continues to grow, however, authentic experiences become harder to find. In 2024, it was valued at roughly US$1.8 billion globally. By 2033, that figure is expected to reach almost US$8 billion, growing at an average rate of about 18 percent a year.
Tourists crave “the real deal,” yet their expectations often reshape what’s served. For example, traditional dishes may be simplified, sweetened or made less spicy to suit visitors’ palates. Authenticity, it appears, is less a fixed ideal than a dialogue between chefs, consumers and the media.
Why does the heritage of gastronomy matter?
Signature dishes remind us that identity isn’t inherited — it’s created and shared. Local cuisine connects people to place, turns ingredients into stories and makes culture tangible.
When cities launch food festivals, culinary routes or UNESCO designation bids, they’re not just promoting restaurants, they’re defining who they are as a country.
In a world often divided, food remains a universal language. Local gastronomy reminds us that what’s on our plate is never just about flavour, it’s about belonging.
This article is republished from theconversation.com under a creative commons license. Read the original article.
Kelowna named Canada’s first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy
Agriculture and innovation have long defined the Okanagan’s story, says Brea Lake, CEO, Accelerate Okanagan, one of the groups championing Kelowna’s bid for the creative city designation.
“This UNESCO recognition honours the blend of cultivation and creativity that makes our region so unique,” says Lake. “Across the valley, food and agriculture leaders are reimagining how we grow, produce and collaborate for a more sustainable future.”
Kelowna is Canada’s first city to receive this designation in the creative field of gastronomy, joining other cities in North America such as San Antonio, Texas and Mérida, Mexico.
For Kelowna Mayor Tom Dyas, the recognition affirms what locals have long understood: Kelowna has evolved into a world-class centre for agriculture, culinary arts and beverages.
Gastronomy plays a central role in Kelowna’s economy, attracting over two million visitors a year and generating $1.17 billion in tourism revenue. More than 500 restaurants add $394 million annually, and local agriculture, which covers over half the city’s land, contributes $3.6 billion and supports nearly 5,000 jobs.
At the Okanagan College, a $55.8-million new Centre for Food, Wine and Tourism is under construction.
“Kelowna’s designation as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy is a remarkable recognition of the innovation, creativity and sustainability that defines our region’s food culture,” says Neil Fassina, president, Okanagan College. “We’re proud to help cultivate the next generation of culinary and hospitality leaders who will continue to elevate this legacy.
Photos by Yvonne Turgeon