Wildfire smoke is once again hanging over parts of B.C.’s wine country, raising a familiar but complicated question as grapes move toward harvest: what does that smoke mean for the wine?
Not necessarily what it might seem.
Current research shows that seeing or smelling smoke in a vineyard does not automatically mean grapes will develop smoke taint. The risk depends on when exposure occurs, how long and intense it is, proximity to the fire, grape variety and other factors.
With growers and wineries now making decisions in the midst of the 2026 season, the BC Wine Grape Council (BCWGC) is bringing researchers and industry experts together Aug. 20 for a free online session on wildfire impacts.
Smoke in the vineyard, but taint in the wine?
Timing matters. According to BCWGC, grapes exposed to smoke shortly before or during véraison tend to produce wines with stronger smoke-taint flavours.
But determining whether a crop has actually been affected isn't as straightforward as tasting a grape.
Volatile phenols from wildfire smoke can be absorbed by grapes and bind with sugars. As a result, grapes may look, smell and taste normal at harvest. During fermentation, those compounds can be released, bringing out the smoky, burnt or ashy characteristics associated with smoke taint.
Testing and trial fermentations can help producers assess that risk. Micro-fermentations offer an indication of how smoke-exposed grapes may behave as wine, while faster nano-fermentations can be completed in as little as 36 hours when harvest decisions can't wait.
There is no single fix for smoke taint. Research continues into both vineyard and winery interventions and how combinations of mitigation strategies can reduce its impact.
Read the BCWGC factsheet Smoke Taint in BC: What We Know So Far.
Webinar: Navigating wildfire impacts to your farm & winery
The webinar will widen the discussion beyond smoke taint research to some of the immediate challenges facing growers and wineries during wildfire conditions. The panel will cover production insurance, smoke taint mitigation strategies and resources for employers navigating wildfire impacts.
Presenters are Lindsay Hainstock of the B.C. Ministry of Agriculture and Food; Dr. Wesley Zandberg of the University of British Columbia; and Ron Maciborski and Kyle Hart of AgSafe BC.
Resources for Navigating Wildfire Impacts to Your Farm and Wine Production Operation takes place online Aug. 20 from noon to 1 p.m. The session is free. Click here to register.