You’ve seen the headlines, you’ve heard from industry spokespeople, you know the B.C. wine industry has been impacted by the unpredictable and extreme weather that grape growers are facing across the world. Noting the trials being experienced in the vineyard, B.C. winemakers are celebrating the triumph of high-quality wines coming out of the 2023 season.
In the process of authoring the annual vintage report for Wine Growers British Columbia, Rhys Pender, Master of Wine, captured perspectives from across the province and we are excited to share what B.C.’s winemakers have to say about the 2023 vintage and how it shaped the B.C. wines now available at cellar doors, wine shops and restaurants across the province.
Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and Fraser Valley
Starting with the regions of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, and Fraser Valley, the moderating influence of the coast resulted in a particularly triumphant vintage in 2023. Despite the trials of an unseasonably cold winter, the vineyards avoided damage.
By summer, all producers reported above-average temperatures and significantly less rainfall than normal, making for ideal ripening conditions and lower disease pressure, leading to high-quality grapes.
“In the wake of the 2023 growing season, Vancouver Island’s grape growers and vintners found themselves celebrating a triumph of nature’s bounty,” says Kalem Magny, 40 Knots Winery in Comox. “With minimal if any winter damage thanks to the moderating influence of the coast, followed by one of the driest springs and summers on record, disease pressure remained low and quality soared.”
Okanagan Valley
In the Okanagan Valley and neighbouring interior regions, the 2023 growing season began with a trial: one particularly devastating cold winter night in late December sent temperatures as low as -30°C, resulting in a significantly reduced crop. Late spring warmth and a hot summer combined with little rainfall came through to quicken the pace of grape development, resulting in ripe-flavoured fruit.
Harvest was completed early under warm, sunny fall conditions with high sugar levels, moderate acids, ripe tannins and good flavour intensity in the grapes. Wildfires were again a prominent news story although wind patterns and duration of smoke exposure were varied, suggesting smoke impact, if any, is expected to be localized.
“The 2023 vintage really was remarkable in many ways; the season crescendoed all at once across the vineyards we manage,” says Ruth King from Kalala Organic Estate Winery in West Kelowna. “While our Zweigelt in West Kelowna produced a low crop, the ripeness, brix and flavour was incredible. Our Cabernet Franc in Oliver had great balance with the ratio of flesh-to-skin on the lower-yielding vines turning out to be a real pleasure to work with. Sauvignon Blanc from Boucherie Road in West Kelowna was another stand-out variety.”
Similkameen Valley
“The 2023 vintage was a tricky one,” says Pender, who, in addition to authoring the vintage report, co-owns Little Farm Winery in the Similkameen Valley. “Our yield was down initially around 30 percent until hungry birds decimated it further still, but the quality was excellent. The fall was long and warm allowing picking at perfect ripeness with amazing flavour concentration. It will be a small-quantity but high-quality vintage.”
Kootenays Region
The Kootenays didn’t experience temperatures as cold as the interior wine regions, but the cold was enough to cause bud damage that reduced the crop to around 50 percent. The season started with early budbreak and then followed with hot dry weather.
“The 2023 growing season in Creston was off to an early start,” says Wes Johnson of Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery. “A warm summer reduced the number of shoots and resulted in a small crop. The resulting white wines were higher in alcohol and very flavourful with lots of tropical notes. Pinot Noir, our only red variety, was light in crop but had great aromatics and developed plenty of tannins to work with.”
Lillooet, Thompson Valley and Shuswap
The winemakers from the smaller, but in no way less mighty, interior regions of Lillooet, Thompson Valley and Shuswap had their own distinctive experiences.
“This was one of the most interesting and most challenging harvests I have done so far,” says Alex Nel of Fort Berens Estate Winery. “We harvested a smaller crop which led to an amazing concentration of fruit flavours. The white wines are showing great structure and fullness on palate with delicate aromatics and the reds have phenomenal colour and flavour concentration, yet they still show elegance. A small but great vintage. Definitely one to remember.”
Galen Barnhardt of Monte Creek Winery in Kamloops reports a bumper crop with high quality in the Thompson Valley. “Though it was a rush to get everything off before sugars skyrocketed in the warm weather. Acids maintained surprisingly well given the heat, so there’s a bit more freshness than I would have expected from such a hot year. Cabernet Franc in particular seems to be showing pretty well with great structure.”
“We experienced uniquely higher levels of ripening than we’re used to seeing here in the Shuswap,” said James Clark, Sunnybrae Vineyards and Winery. “Our Siegerrebe is showing some beautiful flavours with particularly intense aromatics, whilst our Foch is a lot bolder than your average vintage.”
Icewine
No vintage report would be complete without a mention of Icewine production, which this year can be attributed to three wineries who together produced 12 tonnes, the lowest crop on record. The term “liquid gold” is more apt than ever for the 2023 vintage.
What is clear from these winemakers’ perspectives is that while all nine wine regions (Geographical Indications) are distinct what they share in common is passionate and dedicated winegrowers who, through grit and experience, refine their terroir into exceptional wines.
While the industry moves forward adapting to the reality of a severely reduced 2024 crop in several regions, it’s important to look at the wine that’s right in front of us and celebrate the 2023 vintage bottles now hitting shelves.
The detailed 2023 BC Wine Grape Vintage Report is now available on WineBC.com and, for the first time ever, is accompanied by a collection of regional one-pagers which at a glance reveal growing season B.C. wine grape crop indicators to provide anyone promoting or enjoying B.C. wines with a deeper understanding of the growing season and resulting wines. ν
Kelly Josephson is communications manager for Wine Growers BC which represents the interests of B.C. wineries dedicated to producing 100% B.C. grape wine. Follow @WinesofBC or find them on the web at winebc.com