Winemaker Rob Hammersley uncorks a bottle of E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône and passes it down the table, offering each of us a pour of one of the most iconic GSM blends. Founded in 1946, E. Guigal remains one of the most respected and influential wine producers in France’s Rhône Valley.
Here in Kaleden, B.C., we’re a small group of wine enthusiasts gathered for Black Market Wine Co.’s The Art of Blending seminar, and, somehow, we’ve all managed to squeeze around a long table set up inside the winery’s petite tank room.
The event’s promotional promise was simple: hands-on winemaking, canapés, sweeping patio views and an informative vineyard tour on the South Okanagan property.
So far, it’s delivering on all fronts — starting with a swirl of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre to kick things off.
“We can start off by first looking at the colour of the Grenache,” says Rob. “This is fairly light and pale, and much more akin to a grape like Pinot Noir I would say than Syrah. The skins are relatively thin on Grenache. It does love heat so it can get quite high in terms of alcohol potential, but it’s bright and juicy.”
We taste through the three components individually, and each is distinct. I feel the anticipation, knowing that soon we’ll blend them together. Like musical notes forming chords, these separate wines are about to create something far richer than they are alone. (And, I get to take a bottle of my very own blend home.)
The GSM acronym highlights the three grapes, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre that make deep and dark red expressive wines that explode with black fruit and spices. The backbone of most GSM blends, Grenache adds warmth and softness, with red fruit like cherry and raspberry. Syrah brings depth and notes of dark fruit, pepper and smoked meat. Mourvèdre grounds it all with firm tannins, black plum, savoury herbs and that gamey, earthy edge. It’s also the secret to the blend’s aging potential, the star that lets a GSM evolve gracefully over time.
As Rob moves onto the Syrah, he says, “Let’s look at the colour: pretty crazy dark.”
While Syrah is well known to B.C. wine lovers (alas, many plantings have been damaged by the 2024 polar vortex), Grenache is grown on less than 20 acres across the province and Mourvèdre even less, on just over five acres.
For Black Market’s 2024 vintage, the Collusion GSM will be crafted using grapes sourced from Washington State, a practical solution to climate setbacks—and one with a personal connection.
“I did my viticulture and oenology studies at Washington State University, so I’m very familiar with this area,” Rob tells the group, as he walks us through the aromas, flavours and the structural difference of the blending wines. “It was neat to be able to get back down there as more than just a tourist.”
He sourced his grapes from two vineyards in the Wahluke Slope AVA (American Viticultural Area)—a region known for its heat, consistency and Rhône varietals—and likens the model to France, where growers typically supply fruit to wineries, rather than estates owning all their own vineyards.
My first mix is completely out of tune, and I glance at Rob for help. “What’s the Côtes du Rhône formula?”
I purposefully measure out the same ratios we tasted earlier and the magic begins to take place. Tastes yummy, but for my own bottle I settle on my third attempt, a softer expression of these bold components.
In September I had the chance to taste Rob’s final blend, 2025 Collusion Series GSM ($34) and it impressively echoed the balanced and bold notes of its French counterpart. Well done.
In the Okanagan, GSM often fills a niche in the red portfolio, a mid-weight red wine with depth, fruit and food-pairing flexibility. Bottles like the Pentâge 2018 GSM ($34.78), Hester Creek 2022 GSM ($34.99) and the 2022 Road 13 Select Harvest GSM ($45) show how this blend has gained ground in the valley, even if the grapes themselves remain elusive.
Orchard & Vine publisher Yvonne Turgeon shares her Sippin’ Pretty wine and bevvy column every second week on Thompson Okanagan Trends Magazine website trendsmag.ca and Castanet.net