If you’re searching for a standout B.C. wine to define your year, Poplar Grove’s Library Collection is the answer. At the center of this exclusive release is the 2014 Cabernet Franc—just one of 850 bottles re-released from the Naramata Bench winery.
The elegant winery (with equally elegant wines) has always topped my list as a must-stop for wine tours. The tasting room’s vaulted ceiling and expansive windows frame the shimmering waters of Okanagan and Skaha Lakes, with Penticton’s city lights sparkling in between.
Today, we’re seated in the Legacy Room, where bottles glint under soft lighting, freshly dusted off, labelled and adorned with the medals that mark the vintage year 2014. For nearly a decade, the unlabeled bottles had been stored European-style, stacked bottle-on-bottle in the dark corners of the cellar.
“We’ve always cellared wine, but not in large amounts because we just didn’t have the space,” says general manager Chris Holler. He’s seen the Okanagan wine industry evolve from its early days. He notes that before 2010, while wines were always great when young, many wineries lacked the equipment and expertise to produce age-worthy vintages. But with experience and state-of-the-art facilities like Poplar Grove’s 2012 upgrades, which included better temperature control and barrel-aging programs, the region is now crafting cellar-worthy wines.
“I’ve been the GM for six years now, but I still am a farmer,” shares Chris. “I farm Malbec, Chardonnay, and, of course, Pinot Gris.”
The tasting lineup is impressive: 2020 and 2014 vintages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and the flagship Bordeaux-style blend, The Legacy, from 2018 and 2014.
While the 2020 Merlot is smooth and bright with ripe cherry notes, the 2014 Merlot defies its age, remaining fresh and fruit-forward. The fuller mouthfeel, longer finish and subtle hint of earthiness let you know this lady has earned her sophistication and elegance.
Red wines often transition from vibrant ruby or purple tones to more muted garnet or brick hues as they age, but not this gal. “You’re not really seeing any signs of age,” says Chris of the vibrant colour. “And when you try that ten-year, you’re going to say it’s got another ten in it.”
Next comes the star of the show: a side-by-side tasting of the 2020 and 2014 Cabernet Franc.
“This Cab is exclusively Osoyoos fruit grown by my brother Matt, 500 metres from the border,” says Chris. “Very sandy soil; planted in 2008 on an old apple and peach orchard.”
Swirling the 2014, the aromas rise before the glass even reaches my nose. The perfumed notes of the 2020 have transformed into something darker —herbaceous, earthy, almost magical. This wine is smooth, velvety and round, with a complexity reminiscent of port.
The tasting also includes the newly released 2018 The Legacy, a blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot, 6% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. Aged for two years in barrels and two more in bottles before release, its grapes hail primarily from Osoyoos, except for a touch of Malbec and Merlot grown five kilometers down the road by Chris’s other brother Andrew.
For Poplar Grove, the secret to their wines’ depth and age-ability lies in a long ripening season, often stretching into late October.
“It’s always a Halloween pick,’ he says with a smile, describing the wrinkled, desiccated berries that hang late on the vines. This extended hang time concentrates flavours and tannins while cool nights preserve the grapes’ acidity. The result is a delicate balance that produces wines with remarkable depth, structure, and a uniquely Okanagan profile.
O&V publisher Yvonne Turgeon shares her Sippin’ Pretty wine and bevvy column on Thompson Okanagan Trends Magazine website trendsmag.ca.