Photo by Jon Adrian
Great Estates Wine
The opening of Great Estates Wine Experience Centre this fall adds credence to Penticton’s claim to fame as the principal stepping stone to South Okanagan wine country. Conveniently located at street level in an annex to the Penticton Lakeside Resort, the center houses a trio of tasting areas including a sizable Tasting Bar with wine selections rotated daily and a more intimate area targeted for guided wine and food pairings. In addition to clean, modern, uncluttered décor, an entire wall of windows allows light and views of gardens and lake to enhance the wine tasting experience.
Tastings or flights at the Wine Experience Centre are designed for a purpose, according to Josie Tyabji, senior director of Great Estates Okanagan. “Our objective is to tell the story of grape varieties and distinct regions of the South Okanagan,” she says. “We focus on BC VQA wines from Great Estates vineyards and wineries under the umbrella of Arterra Wines Canada.”
A stylized map on the wall identifies wineries (Nk’Mip Cellars, Jackson-Triggs, Inniskillin, See Ya Later Ranch and Sumac Ridge) and vineyards (Bull Pine and Bear Cub in Osoyoos, Dark Horse in the Golden Mile Bench sub-appellation, Black Sage Vineyard in the Black Sage Bench, and See Ya Later which, confusingly, is in Okanagan Falls but is not included in the recently-designated Okanagan Falls sub-appellation). Recently acquired Laughing Stock Vineyards in Naramata Bench is not poured or sold at the Wine Experience Centre at this time.
Deeply rooted in the Okanagan since moving to North Glenmore from Calcutta, Tyabji has worked in the BC wine industry for over 30 years. Before that, in 1973, her father Alan Tyabji, an accountant born in Kashmir, joined a team recruited to run Calona Wines during a time of financial troubles. After a stint as general manager of Okanagan Vineyards (previously Viniterra) south of Oliver, Alan Tyabji took over the winery in 1987 as head of a group of investors. That same year, with a CMA degree earned in Vancouver, Josie Tyabji became general manager of the winery. It put her in the middle of the action at a time when free trade was introduced, hybrids were torn out on the south-facing, rock-strewn slope, and, in 1989-1990, replanted with a cornucopia of traditional vinifera grape varieties including the three major Bordeaux or Meritage red varieties, Zinfandel and Tempranillo by fabled winemaker Sandor Mayer. It was not until 1996 when Okanagan Vineyards was acquired by Niagara-based Inniskillin Wines that the name of the 23 acre vineyard was changed to Dark Horse.
Photo by Michael Botner
Sparkling wine and food pairing
Highlight of the Wine Experience
The following notes are highlights of an instructive wine and food pairing ably led by wine experience director Steve Ward:
- Pairing of an elegant Stellar’s Jay Brut 2015 with mini-bagels topped by smoked salmon, cream cheese, onion and capers. Classic match-up takes acidity down in the wine, making the bubbly more enjoyable for many.
- Nk’Mip Cellar’s rich, buttery 2016 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay offers a touch of oak and a spine of crisp acidity. A wedge of triple cream brie served three ways: On its own, food does not soften oak in wine; Dipping brie in Chardonnay based lemon lime jelly brings out apple, pear fruit nuances in wine; dipping in a sriracha hot sauce destroys the wine.
- Inniskillin 2016 Dark Horse Pinot Noir suggesting slight earth and black cherry accompanies a salad with strawberry, goat cheese, bittersweet chocolate pieces, olive oil, white and regular balsamic. Great pairing. Low-tannin red takes sharpness off goat cheese.
- Sunrock 2015 Illumina is a unique blend of Shiraz and Zinfandel featuring loads of fruit and spice. Pairing with a slice of soppressata salami, blue cheese and olive oil elevates the jammy fruit component in the wine.
- 2015 Black Sage Vineyard Meritage is a bold, full-bodied, fairly tight/tannic red. Serving with New York steak grilled Montreal steak spices does not significantly alter taste of the wine. Rock salt reduces tannins making wine more palatable. Tannins disappear when paired with black cherry candy sprinkled with a little rock salt.
