Laura Kittmer
White Wine Quality: Excellent
Red Wine Quality: Excellent
Icewine: Very good
A cold Canadian winter, unusually wet spring, and dry summer contributed to a well-balanced growing season. Slightly lower yields and phenomenal fruit quality delivered an excellent 2017 vintage, characterized by high flavour concentration, moderate alcohol, balanced tannins, complexity and natural acidity.
In winter 2016/17, the Okanagan region saw extended periods of freezing temperatures in some areas and a lot of moisture in the air and soils. A very wet and cold spring saw bud break delayed generally two to three weeks later compared to 2016, and after a cold winter this had grape growers worried. But as so often is the case, the Okanagan Valley’s warm dry weather began in June and the grapes experienced above-average temperatures throughout the summer. These hot conditions delivered continued vigorous growth allowing healthy flavour development.
Although 2017 was the worst wildfire season on record for BC, the fires were not in grape growing areas and none occurred in early summer. Also, rather than sitting low in the valley, smoke blanketed the sun coverage. This had a positive impact on the growing season by slowing down the periods for grape ripening and flavour development and providing some reprieve for the grapes by reducing the searing temperatures. No ash was observed on grapes for the 2017 vintage.
Harvest timelines for many Okanagan vineyards varied with reported harvest start dates ranging from September to mid-October, ending in late October or early November. While the harvest started a little later for most vineyards it finished later in 2015/16 and is consistent with the average timing of harvest over a ten-year period.
On average in 2017, Okanagan vineyards saw smaller berry size, clusters and juice yields, compared with the past three vintages. Heidi Noble, Owner/Winemaker, JoieFarm Winery said “I was wondering when it was going to stop. We had three vintages in a row that were larger yielding.”
In the Similkameen Valley, John Weber winemaker and owner at Orofino Winery agrees, reiterating small clusters and excellent quality juice.
Similar conditions to the Okanagan were reported for the Similkameen Valley with a cold winter contributing to some bud damage, slightly smaller clusters and juice yields when compared to the abnormally high yields in 2015 and 2016.
Rhys Pender, Master of Wine and owner at Little Farm Winery puts the 2017 vintage into perspective saying, “The last few years have been pretty hot vintages. For 2017, yields are down a little but we are back to normal, if there is such a thing!”
Vintners throughout the Okanagan Valley and Similkameen Valley have described the quality of the 2017 vintage as phenomenal with crisp, fresh whites and elegant reds. Winemakers noted slightly lower alcohol levels, lower pH, and higher malic acids naturally occurred. Certainly, there will be less volume from the 2017 vintage, but overall the quality is excellent.
“Definitely some rock-stars for this vintage…it’s going to be among one of the best vintages we’ve had in the last ten years,” said Dwight Sick, Winemaker at Stag's Hollow Winery & Vineyard.
The Fraser Valley recorded one of the coldest winters in recent years with large quantities of snow. Due to the longer winter, bud break was observed at two to three weeks later than average years, similar to the Okanagan Valley.
Although spring delivered high precipitation to the Fraser Valley, early, proactive and preventative vineyard management measures circumvented crop loss from disease.
A long, wet spring saw rains until July followed by several heat waves in the 30 degrees plus range with harvest recorded later than usual. Andrew Etsell, general manager and viticulturist at Singletree Winery in Abbotsford said, “The warm and dry fall allowed more hang time for excellent flavour development.”
Sugar development, particularly in white wines, was observed as excellent with higher pH and TA levels. Juice yields were double the average, with larger clusters and berry size.
Lamont Brooks of the Wine Islands Growers Association said that by mid-May Vancouver Island had also experienced one of the coolest starts in the last decade. This delayed bud break and bloom by nearly a month compared to 2016. Warmer temperatures and little precipitation followed for nearly perfect conditions, and in the end, he comments, “Due to the excellent fruit set, many vineyards set their all-time yield records.”
Great summer weather continued, with above-average temperatures and nearly zero precipitation in July and August. It was one of the driest summers on record for Vancouver Island.
Early varietals were harvested in late September, with nearly all grapes picked before a significant rainy period started on October 17. Brooks reported well-balanced juices and musts going into fermentation and great aromas coming out.
Other BC interior wine regions experienced similar growing conditions to the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys’. Harper’s Trail Estate Winery in Kamloops reported lower yields but phenomenal quality. Fort Berens Estate Winery reported that Lillooet is also expecting concentrated and flavourful fruit.
Winter for BC’s other wine regions was cold resulting in bud damage for some vineyards, but no vine death was reported. Spring brought wet conditions, excellent for new cover crops and perfect timing for new vine growth.
Bud break in the Kootenays arrived in early May, and for the Lillooet and Kamloops wine regions mid to late April. The harvest ended in mid to late October for most vineyards in BC’s other interior regions.
Smaller clusters and berries resulted in a lower juice yield for some vineyards, while others experienced larger yields, depending on the varietal. Where yields were down, the concentration of fruit flavours was noted as impressive across the board. Vineyard managers and winemakers reported excellent quality.
Icewine harvest started on November 6, making 2017 the earliest icewine harvest in the last 10 years with 22 wineries reporting an estimated 523 tons of Icewine grapes with excellent quality.
In summary, British Columbia’s 2017 vintage started cool and wet but finished with the trademark dry, hot, sunny weather. While supply might be a little lower, the intensely flavoured, balanced and fresh wines will make 2017 a quality vintage